Car when bought....
Day 2 - De Ned'ed
Further Weight Savings...
New Bits and Bobs...
November 27, 2006
here are some pics of the track car we are building for 2007. Its still fairly standard for now, but getting better quickly.
spec so far (not all fitted yet..)
- Apexi intakes
- Greddy elbows
- Greddy hardpipes
- Greddy rad cooler platey thing
- Mines ECU
- Mocal 16row oil cooler
- Mocal remote filter
- brake MS stopper
- ds3000 pads
- full cage with diagonals and door bars
- front/rear strut braces
- 17x9 light weight alloys
- 4x yoko A005 slicks + 2 dunlops
- Skylab TSC Evo torque controller thing
- Nismo rear arms
- uprated down pipe & front pipe, big bore exhaust
- Blitz SBC-iD III boost controller
- Tomei sump baffle
- Headlight duct
- N1 bumper vents
bits coming from out going track car...
lightweight corbeau buckets
3" 6pt harnesses
OMP Extinguisher
Driver Commentary (Fiona): We only got it about 2 months or so ago.
Have had it on a couple of track days at knockhill since then...
plan on doing a lot of work on it over the winter so that it will be ready for next year.
December 14, 2006
Fee fitted the new TSC evo torque splitter thingy
The Tomei sump baffle and Blitz SBC-iD should also be round at the postoffice waiting to be collected!
We'll make a start on the roll cage next week when i'm home
December 16, 2006
sump baffle plate and gates. boost controller...
December 18, 2006...
turbos paid for
Garrett GT2860R (GT28R) Turbo - 360HP
[GT-707160-5]
This Garrett GT2860R turbocharger features:
Garrett Ball Bearing CHRA
Oil & Water-cooled Bearing System
T25 Turbine Inlet Flange with threaded bolt holes instead of traditional through holes
Turbine housing has a unique "compact" 5-bolt outlet that is not interchangeable with traditional T25 5-bolt outlets
Turbine housing is cast from high-nickel "Ni-Resist" material for extreme applications
Turbine wheel is cast from "Inconel" material for extreme applications
Direct replacement upgrade turbocharger for GT2556R (702987-7) used on Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R
Great size for applications with packaging constraints
Optional Turbine housing 0.64 or 0.86
This Garrett GT2860R turbocharger is ideal for smaller displacement engines ranging from 1.8L - 2.7L and will make from 250 up to 360 horsepower.
December 20, 2006...
ECU Swap:
simple 5min job.... car runs a bit smoother now,
Fitting the boost controller...
wasnt to bad fitting the Blitz SBC-iD either. An easy morning, most of which was just faffing round to get in at stuff, feed wires through gromits etc.
Need to look into shortening the 'IN' side of the unit. ATM i have it running from the stock solenoid position down round the front of the engine above the rad then back to the unit by the air filters. Seem to be getting spikes. For example i have ch4 set to 5 Gain, 55 ratio and it holds 0.98 bar perfectly when boosted from low revs, nicely. BUT when you hoof it in 3rd at 5krpm it peaks upto about 1.05+ before settling at 0.98.
Think shortening it will help.
Still need to work out all the functions but it's basicaly the same unit i had in the Supra and R33 Skyline.
January 18, 2007..Cage Test Fitting
January 19, 2007...
Garret GT2860-5 turbos arrived this morning, well i had to go to some PO to get them.
Shipped from the US for 900.... not bad eh
good for about 340bhp each at high boost (1.6bar or something i'd think)
I'll be running them at 1.2bar for now, well once fitted and fueling dependant of course. My Mines ECU and current pump/injectors should be good for 1.2bar. May pop a bigger pump in first anyway.
January 22, 2007... fitted the first bucket.
Was a bit on a PITA getting it in with out griding off the orig seat mout points, sothing i didnt want to do
The corbeau seats are quite high, so had to try and keep the mounts/sliders low.
I had to alter the slider handle and the just reversed it to get the mounts in snug behinf the cross beam on the floor.
Fitted the eye bolts for the harnesses too
January 23, 2007... did some body and electrical work today
Hacked the front bumper to fit the N1 bumper vents. Will need to grind the crash bar for them to fit properly tomorrow.
Fixed the front headlights. When i got the car the drivers side main beam would sometimes work. It stopped working all together, along with the full beam constant (full beam flash worked). Ruled out bulb problems, then just rewired the fucker.
January 24, 2007...
grinded the crash bar, fitted and bonded vents in. May have to rebond one as it hasnt seemed to have taken
Fitted new front wipers to get rid of the chrome uns...
Refurbed/cleaned the two front 4 pots and fitted Ferrodo DS3000 pads. Will need to bleed the brakes at the weekend though as the brake fulid reservoir cap is a daft size not supplied with Gunson easy bleed. Well i never checked, but it looks daft
brakes...
January 25, 2007...
refurbed/cleaned the rear 2pots today. They were pretty manky!
Half bled (got fluid to the bleed nipples) ready for bleeding it on sat. Saves a bit of time and means the car has some brakes for now.
Took the car home to test the cage/seat/helmet situation. Not bad, i seem to fit fine, so the seat may stay
Oh... and the brakes unbedded, not bled properly, very long pedal travel ..... already feel better than they did
Think it just had glazed pads on before.
February 5, 2007... suspension has arrived...
February 7, 2007... Fitting the new Suspension...
thats the rears in now too
its much much better now. Haven't adjusted heights etc properly yet, just put them on at what i thought might be ok. Still the fit the EDFC motors and head units.... do that tomorrow maybe
compression EDFC's fitted... bit of a fiddly pain in the boobies, but done.
Also have the 2nd unit mounted, and wired. Just need to mount the motors on the reservoirs
fitted the two EDFC's for front rebound (on remote reservoirs), and put the loom in place for the rears. Just need to mount the rears on the adjusters then that's it
Slicks fitted to rims
found a wee bit of rust in the foot-well 
The outer sill is solid, but the floor has been pushed up where it looks like the car has been jacked up on the std lip jacking points.... with a trolley jack i presume Think the crease has just got rusty over time. Patched it up, stripped the rest of the sound deadening out from the drivers side and painted black for now.
changed the drivers seat mount 
FROM - My home made bingo bodge
TO - Driftworks low mount - £119 :!
Seat does sit a lot lower though, and slides a bit easier than my makeshift one 
Also stripped the floor behind the seat and painted it too.
fitted the wheels... still having a problem with one rim. Tried 2 diff yoko slicks on them but still its got a slow puncture :/ Wheels fit well
stripped the other front side too... and found another rust patch in the same jacking point spot. Outer sill was solid again... bizzare.
New Head, Inlet, Exhaust and throttle bodies gaskets arrived from Japan
more new bits n bobs..
Project Mu front discs.... gay colour....
APP front and rear braided steel brake lines
Tomei rod bolts
Hmmmm :O not too healthy ex-passenger side front disc. They were wrecked at my last knockhill outing, but i just thought they were warped. They were not cracked after that, but must have just put them over the edge on sunday with the cold 1/4mile braking.
new uprated NISMO oil pump
feckin rust bucket.....
Saw a rust bubble on the bottom of the drivers side rear arch..... gave it a scrape. Wasnt too solid so started cutting it back to goo metal. It looks like a previous attempt at a repair or rust.... found a bit of filler and gauze with lots of sand in the bottom of the arch 
welded in new sections ( as best i can)
final piece of the pie arrived this morning! Great timing as the car goes into the garage tomorrow HKS turbine fitting kit. Gaskets, bolts, washers etc...
New side mount for the psgr bucket Will fix it with no runners, low and near the centre of the car..... as possible
4 new (to me) sticky slickiesselling the 4 yoko's as i feel they are a bit narrow.... so now have 6 of the dunlops
Engine is now out.... with suspected piston slap being the cause of some of the weird bottom end noise.... not the bearings... SO... 6x OS Giken pistons added to the build :/
engine on the floor
Will be getting re-bored in the next few days, block cleaned up and painted...
Added an adjustable FPR to the build too.
Just trying to figure out the fueling now :/
either 280lph pump, fpr, 700cc injectors
OR
whole hog overkill type thing
2 intank 280lph pumps... feeding duel feed fuel rails, 1000cc injectors, fpr
OR
280lph in tank pump feeding swirl pop with 2 external pumps feeding rail, fpr, 1000cc injecotors
Spec of car now RB26DETT
Tomei layered metal head gasket (1.2mm)
86.5 OS Giken forged pistons
Tomei rod bolts
Tomei sump baffle
Tomei metal gaskets
HKS turbo gaskets and fittings
2x Garret GT2860-5's
XS power downpipes
Fujitsubo Giken exhaust
Apexi intakes (2)
Blitz SBC-iD boost control
Skylab TSC Evo (Attessa adjusting sys)
Susp
TEIN Circuit Master package
2x EDFC Units
Nismo Rear arms
Brakes
APP braided lines
Project Mu SCR Discs
Ferrodo DS3000 pads
5.1 fluid
interior
2x Corbeau light weight buckets
2x 6 point 3" Sabelt harnesses
Cusco 6pt cage
Wheels n tyres
OE alloys with rubber bands
17" Kai Office Modia's with dunlop slicks....
...got the car back now.... its going to be interesting for Fee in the next few weeks
She'll have to...
1: finish the run in
2: Change oil/filter
3: work out new settings for boost controller
4: fit pas seat
all before she gets some tuition at knockhill in it
Here are some pics from tonight.... old turbos..... 1 exhaust wheel looks quite oily...
some more weight saving.... aircon pump. Will remove the AC rad next time the bumpers off. Will be off soon to locate the oil cooler
gave it a wee wash.... :/ was filthy
and the run in miles so far..... PAINFULL
near 900 miles done now....
started on the oil cooler this morning.... didnt have time to do much, but its a start.
Thats the mocal cooler just fitted in place and not plummed in. I'll get the bumper off again and tidy it all up whilst fitting the remote filter and plumbing in the cooler.
Oil was changed, out with the run -in oil, in with the fresh 10w60.
Boost/Fueling was checked with a wideband.... Now boosting to 1.2 bar safely with Mines ECU and Tomei FPR as the only fueling mods. AFMS and injectors are standard.
its got a bad crunch going into 4th (up from 3rd and down from 5th) at high rpm. Can mask it with thicker gb oil, but it's not going to fix itself. I'm looking at around 800 for a rebuild using newer/stronger nissan internals or 1k+ for OS giken gearkit (pretty sure thats only 1-3 though and nissan 4/5)
Other option... the good one.... the expensive one OS Giken 6speed sequential.... 5500 for the gearbox alone :O
standard nissan gears 'in my opinion' arent going to last long.... so really need to uprate :/
here are some previews of the fuel system from RIPS... Its not finished yet, will be stripped and polished up etc.
polished and ready to go now
just waiting for the bonnet decal to be made then it will be shipped
Thats all the sound deadening removed from the passenger side, sanded and painted...
Just the back to do now
plugs changed
Fuel pumps, filters and swirl pot arrived along with RIPS Racing bonnet decal thing.
Also ordered 800cc SARD twinhole injectors x6
leaky diff (fuzzy pics!)
What a pin in the tits the filler plug was No room to get a ratchet in... feckin rear steering rack :grr:
Ok....
then back onto the oil cooler...
1 question....
SR1/2----------------4-------1/2 BSP SEALING RING
What do they seal? i.e where do they go?
Between the remote filet/sandwhich plate? And block/take off?
Or somewhere else?
these...
its all done bar actually plumbing it in. All the hoses are made up bar the end of one! Missing a push on fitting grrr
Also a wee bit more weight reduction.... removed more of the AC system. Rad out, and fan thing. also trial fitted the headlight vent. OMG what a shit fit EBAY special! Dont buy!!!
From FEE: right..... busy week this week....
Need to finish the oil cooler - the last connection is here now so nothing holding it back.
I need to somehow batter the locking nuts off, and get new ones. The slicks are stuck on at the moment
Just ordered new discs.... DBA 4000's.... the project Mu SCR's didnt last too well. They were bedded in, and felt damn good for about 4 trackdays. Feel badly warped now though. Maybe should have gone SCR Pro..... Really need to up the caliper and disc size though.. Its a big car to constantly stop
Rear diff - feels fecked. Coming out of the hairpin it cant get power down. Feels like its just spinning the inside wheel.
Adam - parp...
Locking nuts 'removed' - sourced 4 OE nuts.
Oil Cooler finally plumbed in, and given a short test (not up to temp for sandwhich plate to open though)
Front bumper 'edited' for more cooling to oil cooler.
New light vent fitted. Much Much better fit, and had some mesh to stop and pigeons getting sucked in
Lowered the front suspension about 15mm (will raise the rear a touch tomorrow).
see height difference here
Oil Changed
Checked out the front brakes... the discs dont look to have deposits of pads from hot stops. The dont appear to have even wear from the pad though. The discs appreared to become warped halfway through the dreadnaught night, getting worse as time went by. Causes? I dont think i've run them too hot?! I try not to keep my foot on the brakes when hot etc. They were bedded in.
I have new DBA4000's on the way, but i'll remove the MU's and get them skimmed as a spare set.
New DBA 4000 slotted discs arrived today. Good service from RB Motorsport, next dat delivery. They look less gay than the mangled MU's, and have funky temp indicators on them. 3 different strips that changed colour at certain temps.
Trying to work out what happened to the old ones as they are showing very little wear, and lasted about 4 trackdays There is only 1 spot which looks like the result of a hot pad being stuck on. Maybe i just didnt bed them in enough/get them through enough high enough heat cycles.
New ones on
gave the oil cooler a long test today in quite warm weather....
the plate seems to open around 65-70 which is lower than i though it would be (any ideas what is supposed to be set at?)
Overall oil temps whilst driving round town etc (reading diff's off std gauge before and after) are down by about 10deg. From just under 90, to just under 80, maybe more liek just over 70.
Out on the road with some spirited driving - from around 100-110 down to about 88-90.
Seems to be working well then. Will test it on track tomorrow night. Could only get about 4-5 laps in before the gauges was starting to go north of 110 on Monday eve
been a bit busy with house moving and decorating...
The car is in getting a head rebuild. Worn valve guides.
Battery tray bought - lightweight alloys cage to fit battery behind pas seat.
New cables and cut off switch etc bought
Catch Tank bought New wheels and Toyo888's bought
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